As a dermatologist, I am often asked about the benefits of skin care products containing retinoids. “Retinoids” refers to vitamin A based skin care products. Tretinoin was the first topical retinoid FDA approved in 1971 for the treatment of acne, and later for the treatment of photoaging, fine lines, textural irregularities or roughness, and pigmentation such as “liver spots.”  We now have a wide variety of both prescription and non-prescription retinoid options available for daily use. 
 
 A product containing retinoids can benefit anyone interested in improving their skin tone and appearance but especially patients with acne, sun spots, pigment irregularities and fine lines and wrinkles.  Because retinoids promote skin cell turn over and shedding, dryness and irritation can be a common complaint when initiating therapy. Starting with a less aggressive retinoid formula, like an over-the-counter retinol, can help decrease this side effect
 
Retinoids applied topically act through binding to retinoic acid receptors in the skin altering the expression of cellular proteins, thus providing a multitude of benefits in the skin such as decreasing inflammation, increasing skin cell turn over and shedding, decreasing acne comedone formation, and upregulating genes responsible for collagen synthesis. Prescription strength tretinoin or retinoic acid is stronger and faster acting than its nonprescription counterpart retinol.  
 
In comparative studies on daily application of retinol (over the counter) vs retinoic acid (prescription) on the appearance of the skin as shown by skin biopsy and imaging analysis, results demonstrated that topical application of retinol induces similar changes in skin histology and gene expression as retinoic acid application.  Although the magnitude of the effect tends to be smaller, these results have been demonstrated by the significant facial anti-aging effect observed in clinical studies of retinol efficacy.
 
With so many products on the market claiming to help with anti-aging and wrinkle reduction, it can be daunting for consumers to know what products might be right for them. Whether starting with prescription or nonprescription formulations, patients can decrease the potential for irritation with every other night application and slowly increasing the frequency of use. For first time users or patients with dry or sensitive skin, a nonprescription retinol may be a better initial choice.  If in doubt, consult with your dermatologist as to which product might be the best for you. 
 
Patients with inflammatory diseases of skin like rosacea or dry sensitive skin may not be able to tolerate even a low strength retinol.  Application on the eyes, eyelids, and mucous membranes should be avoided.  Retinoids can also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, making it imperative to use a retinoid at night and paired with a daily sun screen or moisturizer with SPF.  Retinoids should not be used during pregnancy. 
 
Although some patients may see visible changes in the skin in as little as 4 weeks, it may take 12 weeks or longer for you to notice significant improvement in your skin, even if applying a retinoid every day. 
 
If you have questions about this product or other skin care products, don’t hesitate to come visit us at Alamo Heights Dermatology Bulverde!

  
121 Bulverde Crossing Rd Suite 110
Bulverde, TX 78163-6201
(830) 380-3031
https://alamoheightsderm.com/
Member of our BSB Chamber of Commerce